September-October

New School Permaculture Spring Courses
Permaculture is to live in harmony with nature providing for human needs and the needs of everything around us
A apresentar mensagens correspondentes à consulta plastic ordenadas por relevância. Ordenar por data Mostrar todas as mensagens
A apresentar mensagens correspondentes à consulta plastic ordenadas por relevância. Ordenar por data Mostrar todas as mensagens

The numbers on plastic, what do they mean?

THE PLASTIC RECYCLING SYMBOLS


PLASTIC #1 – PETE OR PET (POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE)

  • Picked up by most curbside recycling programs, plastic #1 is usually clear and used to make soda and water bottles. Some consider it safe, but this plastic is known to allow bacteria to accumulate.
  • It’s found mostly in soda bottles, water bottles, beer bottles, salad dressing containers, mouthwash bottles, and peanut butter containers.
  • Plastic #1 is recycled into tote bags, furniture, carpet, paneling, fiber, and polar fleece.

PLASTIC #2 – HDPE (HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE)

  • Plastic #2 is typically opaque and picked up by most curbside recycling programs. This plastic is one of the 3 plastics considered to be safe, and has a lower risk of leaching.
  • It’s found mostly in milk jugs, household cleaner containers, juice bottles, shampoo bottles, cereal box liners, detergent bottles, motor oil bottles, yogurt tubs, and butter tubs.ilk jugs, detergent bottles, juice bottles, butter tubs, and toiletries bottles are made of this.  It is usually opaque. This plastic is considered safe and has low risk of leaching.
  • Plastic #2 is recycled into pens, recycling containers, picnic tables, lumber, benches, fencing, and detergent bottles, to name a few.

PLASTIC #3 – V OR PVC (VINYL)

    • Plastic #3 is used to make food wrap, plumbing pipes, and detergent bottles, and is seldom accepted by curbside recycling programs. These plastics used to, and still may, contain phthalates, which are linked to numerous health issues ranging from developmental problems to miscarriages. They also contain DEHA, which can be carcinogenic with long-term exposure. DEHA has also been linked to loss of bone mass and liver problems. Don’t cook with or burn this plastic.
  • It’s found in shampoo bottles, clear food packaging, cooking oil bottles, medical equipment, piping, and windows.
    • This plastic is recycled into paneling, flooring, speed bumps, decks, and roadway gutters.

    PLASTIC #4 – LDPE (LOW DENSITY POLYETHYLENE)

    • Low density polyethylene is most found in squeezable bottles, shopping bags, clothing, carpet, frozen food, bread bags, and some food wraps. Curbside recycling programs haven’t been known to pick up this plastic, but more are starting to accept it. Plastic #4 rests among the recycling symbols considered to be safe.
    • This plastic is recycled into compost bins, paneling, trash can liners and cans, floor tiles, and shipping envelopes.

    PLASTIC #5 – PP (POLYPROPYLENE)

    • Increasingly becoming accepted by curbside recycle programs, plastic #5 is also one of the safer plastics to look for.
    • It is typically found in yogurt containers, ketchup bottles, syrup bottles, and medicine bottles.
    • Polypropylene is recycled into brooms, auto battery cases, bins, pallets, signal lights, ice scrapers, and bycycle racks.

    PLASTIC #6 – PS (POLYSTYRENE)

    • Polystyrene is Styrofoam, which is notorious for being difficult to recycle, and thus, bad for the environment. This kind of plastic also poses a health risk, leaching potentially toxic chemicals, especially when heated. Most recycling programs won’t accept it.
    • Plastic #6 is found in compact disc cases, egg cartons, meat trays, and disposable plates and cups.
    • It is recycled into egg cartons, vents, foam packing, and insulation.

    PLASTIC #7 – OTHER, MISCELLANEOUS

    • All of the plastic resins that don’t fit into the other categories are placed in the number 7 category. It’s a mix bag of plastics that includes polycarbonate, which contains the toxic bisphenol-A (BPA). These plastics should be avoided due to possibly containing hormone disruptors like BPA, which has been linked to infertility, hyperactivity, reproductive problems, and other health issues.
    • Plastic #7 is found in sunglasses, iPod cases, computer cases, nylon, 3- and 5-gallon water bottles, and bullet-proof materials.
    • It is recycled into plastic lumber and other custom-made products.

    THE BOTTOM LINE: WHICH RECYCLING NUMBERS TO AVOID, WHICH ARE ‘SAFEST’

    In the end, it’s really best to avoid using all plastics if you’re able. But at the very least:
    • Avoid recycling symbols 3, 6, and 7. While Number 1 is considered safe, it is also best to avoid this plastic.
  • Look for symbols 2, 4, and 5, as these plastics are considered to be safest. These are the plastics to look for in terms of human and animal consumption.
  • In the end, plastics will still be used, but you can certainly limit your use of the product. Instead of buying plastic water bottles or other plastic containers, choose glass or invest in a high quality water filtration system to obtain your water from. (This is best for your health anyway).

    Additional Sources:
    Source HERE

How to make a homemade (DIY) cardboard solar dehydrator / Como fazer desidratador solar de cartão

Cardboard solar dehydrator


By Karin Weijers

My dear friend Helder asked me to write an article about dried food, like fruit and vegetables. 
The main reason to dry your fruit or vegetables is because your garden is producing more than you can use at that moment.
 Of course there are other methods preserving your crops for a longer time period. 
Why drying, it is easy to do yourself, you can dry nearly everything, it keeps the vitamins and minerals in the original state (if the temperature is not above 41 degrees Celsius), if you use a self-made solar dehydrator  it does not use external energy like gas or electricity, easy to store and it will stay for a long time.
Before you want to use dried food it is better to soak it in water, it returns to the original shape. After this you can eat or prepare a healthy meal. Of course you can eat the dried food without soaking but I suggest you drink some water and chew very good. Some more facts about dry fruit you will find in this interesting link 

You can make banana, apple, beetroot, carrot, sweet potato, cassava as chips or even mushrooms or soak your favorite vegetables in a marinate and dry them so  that you can get a nice flavour.


Kale chips recipe

Ingredients:

1 large bunch kale, any variety
2 - 3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt

Preparation:

Strip the leaves away from the leafstalks and tough midribs (if you dry the whole leaves, the midribs end up with the consistency of twigs - not tasty!). Compost the leafstalks or save for soup stock.

Wash the kale leaves and dry well in a salad spinner or by gently rolling the leaves in a clean dishtowel.
Tear the washed and dried leaves into just slightly larger than chip sized pieces; they will shrink slightly as they dry. Toss the kale in a large bowl with the extra-virgin olive oil and the salt. Massage the leaves well with your clean hands. All of the leaves should be more or less evenly coated with the oil. If you like spicy flavors, add a dash of cayenne pepper. Nutritional yeast will add a cheesy flavor.

This link gives you some does and don'ts while drying fruits


And now the design for our homescale project


Made from two cardboard boxes, some clear plastic wrap, and a little tape. You can build a nearly free solar dehydrator.

 Set it on a stool or chair and face it's solar collector towards the sun, and you have a functional food preservation machine for little work and even less money.

The above picture almost says it all. Using a long thin cardboard box for the collector and a taller, nearly square, cardboard box for the drying box.

 Boxes could be made to size by cutting and taping together small cardboard pieces. Line the bottom of the collector box with a black plastic garbage bag or paint the bottom with black, water based, poster paint, (lamp black or soot mixed with a little vegetable oil would work as well).

 If you use spray paint or other toxic paints, let the collector bake in the sun for a day or two before use.


 Cover the top of the collector with clear plastic wrap or window glass, etc. Tape it together as shown.
To increase the efficiency, you may want to cover the sides and bottom of both boxes with fiberglass or styrofoam insulation.


Drawing courtesy of: Mother's Energy Efficiency Book Copyright 1983 ISBN 0-938-43205-2

TESTS FOR DRYNESS:
Rely on appearance and feel to judge dryness.
Cool a test handful a few minutes before deciding whether the food is done.
Consider fruit dry when no wetness can be squeezed from a piece which has been cut - it should be rather tough and pliable. 
Consider vegetables dry when brittle.
PRE- AND POST-DRYING TREATMENTS FOR FRUITS & VEGETABLES:
Steam blanching is safe pre-treatment which can prevent spoilage - especially of low acid foods such as vegetables.


Important post-drying treatments are:
Conditioning - i.e. leaving in open air for long periods to equalize moisture content.
Pasteurizing - i.e. exposing the dried foods to high heat to eliminate harmful organisms
STORAGE:
Ensure food is thoroughly cool before storing. 
Store in small quantities in glass or food-grade plastic. 
Check supplies frequently for contamination or dampness. 
Keep in a dry, cool place (between 4 C/40 F and 21 C/70 F). 
PREPARING FOR EATING:
Fruits - cover with boiling water in saucepan and simmer the fruit covered for 10-15 min.
- sweeten to taste at the very end of cooking.
- remove from heat and cool still covered Vegetables. 
- soak all vegetables except greens in cold water until they are nearly restored to their original texture. 
- use only enough water to cover and always cook in the soaking water. 
- cover greens with enough boiling water to cover and simmer until tender. 


One of best crops you can dry are tomatos, to know some trick on how to grow them click HERE

Man invents machine to convert plastic into oil

If we burn the plastic, we generate toxins and a large amount of CO2. If we convert it into oil, we save CO2 and at the same time increase people’s awareness about the value of plastic garbage.—Akinori Ito, CEO of Blest.

The plastic is killing us all

The problems from plastic are much bigger than we imagine


What can we do to reverse this situation that is getting you bodies sick and destroying our ecosystems









How to grow tomato plants without space using a hanging recycled plastic bottle by Master Nature

Master Nature 
Ideas #1

The tomato revolution
 has arived with the help of 
Master Nature



The planet is facing many chalenges and the problems are very complex.

It is important to keep a positive attitude and to look for simple solutions even for the most complex problems. 

Best place to start its the kitchen window using 
urban permaculture


This new revolutionary way of growing vertical tomato and other food plants for people with limited space can be a lot of fun for adults and children.



It is a very interesting way to create a garden for people that have very limited room but still are passionate about nature and want to become gardeners.



If you have a small kitchen room with some window light or even with an artificial light you have all that is needed to create this amazing garden area.



You will find that this is the best do it your self (DIY) method for producing your own salad tomatoes and other greens even without experience or space.


 Upside down tomato plants can save a lot of space and they are something that will for sure surprise you and your family.


Advantages

  • Free tomatoes - This method is a great choice for growing your own food at no cost and on your own house, even if you live in a big city.
  • Big Production - You will be surprised by how much you will produce even with a small bottle, all because there is a lot of free space for the plant to grow without the need of tutors or holding structures.
  • Help of gravity - With the help of gravity you will see plants grow a lot stronger and faster than in a regular pot.
  • Clean food - Since you are the gardener you will have clean organic food without herbicides fungicides and chemical fertilizers.
  • No labour - Besides the initial instalation there isnt much more time or energy needed, all you have to do then its water and harvest and thats it. 
  • No Diseases - Since the plants are upside down you will see that you will not get pest or problems since air flow its really good and that keeps problems away.
  • Easy harvesting - This tomato plant will provide an easy way for you to do your harvest without havint to think of a structure to hold the plant.
  • Clean air at home - Having plants at home is the best way to have clean air and a more healthy environment at home and that improves our quality of life.
  • Fight climate change - We all know the importance of being active on the protection of the planet with all the polution and garbage that we see around us, with this method you will become part of the natural revolution and the CO2 reduction.
  • Nature connection - Nature is our master and our therapist, by taking care of a plant you will find a relaxed mental state on your day to day life and by taking care of a plant we solve all the worlds problems.








What do i need?

Container – The bigger the better for large production of delicious free.
Seeds or plants - Good Seeds, you can grow tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers.
Good soil – The best is organic chemical free soil from your local suplier.
Fertlizer – If you would really like to have a massive production you can use use an organic fertilizer, that will make a big difference if you want a huge crop.
Watering – Depending on weather and soil type you might have to water more or less frequently.

Container options

Professional container of vertical 
upside down tomato growing

You can find or create several options for containers, from the basic DIY  homemade versions with plastic bottles 
to the more professional super productive versions of planters. 

With some containers 
plants can get massive

Its important to have a long lasting robust container that will not be damaged by the big root development and heavy plant growth, if the plant gets too heavy you will have to prune it and with that you will lose some production.

 Most strong plastic, or strong containers will create no problems.


Your container needs to be deep and wide enough for the adult size of the variety of tomato chosen so that it can have maximum production.

If you would like a very productive professional container
send us an email to newschoolpermies@gmail.com

BEST TOMATO VARIETIES

Some varieties of tomatoes grow better upside down than others.
Varieties with small fruit are a usually the best but .
You can try with many varieties but the ones we prefer are:

Yellow Cherry 
 Doesnt need much light and has a short season production, its very productive.


Pear tomato 
 Tomato with unique and special shape that will make you eat them like candy.

European black
This is one of most beautifull varieties of tomatoes and the flavour its super unique.


You can try many varieties, some will adapt better than others, only time and experience will make you understand the best ones.

If you would like to receive this varieties above
send us an email to newschoolpermies@gmail.com

BEST soil options

There are many soil mixes that you can use and as a gardener with practice, experience and time you will be able to create your own.
There are some basic rules for good soil and they can be simplified as:


Organic – If you want to grow something special and clean of poison for your family, organic should be your first option.
Aerated - Soil that is soft not compacted and aerated its the best substrate for tomatoes and upside down plants.
Not sterilized – Sterilized soil has no life and that will make plants grow much more slow than with a living soil.


 Living Fertilizers

Fertility its the key for healthy plants and nutrient dense food.
To be able to reach maximum results you will need to fertilize your tomatoes frequently because they really like that extra fertility.
Chose some natural fertilizers that are easily available for the plants and have a fast absorbsion with that you can have the best results.
Our best results are with liquid living fertilizer, in that way the plant can absorb super fast and we can see huge growth every day, and all natural.

If you need some more advice on soil creation or fertilizers
send us an email to newschoolpermies@gmail.com



Watering

Watering its an art that can take time to get perfect.
Most plants survive easy as long as they have soil and water but to have perfect results you have to "talk with your plant" and understand when its the best moment to water.
This is an art that can take many years to be perfect.
Our trick its to water everytime the soil gets dry but to
not let it get too much dry .
Sometimes its everyday, sometimes its every 3 days, sometimes its twice a day.
Another trick we use is to fertlize every time we water so that wen the plant is starting to have the need for water it can also have some "candy" and
get really big.

Depending on container you have you might have to water less or more, professional containers can have self watering systems and with that you might only have to water once a week.


How do i start?

You can start with the homemade (DYI) version of the 
vertical upside down planting container.
 It is a very simple process and can save you some money. 
You other option its to get the professional version that will allow you to start immediately with the best possible conditions.



For the DYI version
One important tip its to cover the light with some tape because
 roots dont like to be exposed to light.



 On their natural environment roots are always in the soil and they are never exposed to sun light ;)

If you are looking for something ready to start that will allow for best results starting on the first growing season you can always get something specially prepared for this function.


For best results you can contact us and we can provide best ideas, sugestions and materials for you to have one on a lifetime crop.


We have for you, containers, seeds, soil and fertilizers that will make everything more easy in the moment of growing, caring and harvesting.
If you are interested send us an email to

 newschoolpermies@gmail.com


One you have your crop you can use this method to dry the tomato in the sun and get a delicious product you that you can preserve for long time.


The most important thing of all its that you grow, 
and to grow with what you grow.
And with what you grow
we all grow.


By
Master Nature




If you would like to keep learning more dont forget to join our facebook groups so that you can learn about many different topics for free and be part of a network of people with the same passions.



Myco - Permaculture how to create fertile soil and produce delicious mushrooms at the same time

Myco-Permaculture:

Grow mushrooms if you want to live forever


  1. Mycopermaculture – a vision of reconnection

  2. Mycorrhizae and the Wood Wide Web

  3. Gourmet Land Regeneration

  4. Inoculating garden beds and paths 

  5. Log innoculation - Fruit trees

  6. Coffee grounds as substrate for Oyster mushrooms

  7. Other substrates and propagation through stem butts

  8. Fungi in farming

  9. Fungi in natural succession and healthy forests


Mycopermaculture – a vision of reconnection


Life is about connections and cycles.

Just how interconnected everything actually is?

The answer lies somewhere between quantum physics and spirituality , or as they say- the answer lies within. Luckily, we have Permaculture nowadays to explain the complexity of it all. Or, in this case- MycoPermaculture- my new favorite term that integrates fungi and permaculture into a holistic view of the world that surrounds us, from birds and clouds, to the microorganisms in the soil. 

All ecosystems depend upon fungi's ability to decompose organic plant matter, they are the primal recyclers on the planet. The end result of their activity is the return of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and minerals back into the ecosystem in forms usable to plants, insects, and other organisms. 

By introducing Mycopermaculture in every zone of our land we encourage biodiversity, higher yield, soil regeneration and nutrition, wider reach of nutrients for plants and trees, potential income, and of course, healthier diet, where food becomes our medicine and medicine is our food.


Gourmet or medicinal, parasitic or psychedelic, cultivating this wise ancient organism is another step towards living in harmony within the ecosystem.


Some mind-blowing facts from the fascinating world of fungi:


  • Largest single living organism on Earth, a 10km2 of the parasitic Armillaria or Honey Mushroom network in the Blue Mountains of Oregon, USA. Scientists estimate it to be somewhere between 2000-8000 years old, and the estimated weight if scooped up together could be between 7500-35000 tons!

  • Speaking of parasitic- how about zombie ants taken over by the mysterious Cordyceps fungus, just to be mind-controlled to spread their spores and die! By the way, the Cordyceps is also highly medicinal- anti-cancer (particularly against leukemia), antioxidant, reduces cholesterol and treats heart disease. Evil for the greater good, with a style! Material for alien-invasion movies…

  • Most expensive food ever sold, a White Truffle fungus, also in the Guiness book as the largest truffle, weighting almost 2kg, sold on an auction in Italy in 2014, for 61250$! For clear reasons, there is also a whole black market behind this truffle.

  • First antibiotic ever discovered in 1928 by A. Fleming was processed from the Penicillium mold fungus.

  • Reishi mushrooms are considered the most medicinal, with the longest history of use in traditional medicine, stretching back thousands of years to ancient China, where it was called the “mushroom of immortality”, due to it’s powerful healing properties against heart disease, cancer, diabetes, inflammation etc

  • Among most medicinal mushrooms are also Turkey Tail- immune boosting and anti-cancer; Lion’s Mane- brain tissue regeneration and anti-tumor (also delicious); Shiitake- lowers cholesterol, anti-cancer, anti-viral and immune booster; Oyster mushrooms- full of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, boosts brain health (delicious too).

  • Alternative medicine of the future- the controversial psychedelic mushrooms, or “The Sacred Psilocybes” as Paul Stamets* calls them, containing the powerful psilocybin, reported by users to have deep spiritual and healing impact,also  proved to be treating a range of serious illnesses ever-present in our modern society, like depression, anxiety, PTSD, alchohol and other addictions, 


*Paul Stamets- mycologist, author on medicinal fungi and the importance of nature’s ecosystems. Check out this awesome podcast where he talks about his reasearch on fungi and suggests redefining the Ego-centric Darwinian theory about “survival of the fittest”, instead redirecting humanity to an Eco-centric approach, where generosity, cooperation and biodiversity is key to not only survival but thrival.


Mycorrhizae and the Wood Wide Web


Besides the saprophytic fungi or the wood decomposers that most of us are aware of in one way or another, there is an invisible landscape hidden underground, that we only begin to understand with the recent studies- the Mycorrhizae, symbiotic relationships between fungi and plants. 

These are underground hyphal networks created by certain fungi that connects all the roots of all the trees and all the plants in every patch oi soil that we step on, to ensure better reach of water, carbon, nitrogen and other nutrients and minerals. Plants with mycorrhizal fungal partners can also resist diseases far better than those without. 

It’s basically a secret communication channel or what we came to call the Wood Wide Web. So what do you do as the Perma-warrior of your neighboorhood? You connect your plants to the WWW! If anyone wondered about the gardening of the future…


The formation and maintenance of these mycorrhizal networks are influenced by factors such as soil fertility, resource availability, seasonal variations, disturbances due to human activity and impact on the nitrogen cycle.

Naturally, we want to encourage and cultivate these amazing fungal partners in our environment, for mutual benefit.

Climate, soil chemistry, and predominant microflora in the area are decisive in the cultivation of mycorrhizal mushrooms in natural settings. Species native to a region are likely to adapt much more readily to designed habitats than exotic species, so with a permaculture mindset- keep it local!

Mycorrhizal species can be cultivated in a simple old proven way, and that is satellite planting. You plant young seedlings around the base of trees naturally producing Boletus, Chanterelles, Matsutake, Truffles or other species of choice, letting them aclimate and become “infected” with the mycorrhizae of the parent tree. In this way a second generation of trees carrying the mycorrhizal fungus is generated. After several years of association, the new trees are dug up and replanted in the new environment, establishing new colonies. This method has the longest tradition of success in Europe.


Another approach, less successful but charmingly simple, is to dip the exposed roots of tree seedlings into water enriched with the spore-mass of a mycorrhizal candidate. You can get the mixture at a local store, online provider OR simply gather mushrooms from the wild (because Nature provides) and soak them in water. Thousands of spores are washed off the gills of a few mature mushrooms, resulting in an enriched spore-mass slurry. This can be diluted into a 15L bucket that can inoculate a hundred or more seedlings. Good luck and have fun! In a few years you might be getting delicious mushies popping up around your orchards!


Gourmet Land Regeneration


So now that we’re “plugged in” into the Wood Wide Web and our baby trees are growing nice and happy with their new mycorrhizal partners, we can get back to smaller scale action and see other ways to grow gourmet mushrooms around the garden, hopefully within months.


Most of gourmet mushrooms are saprophytic, meaning wood-decomposing fungi. The result of this process of decomposing organic matter is the return of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and minerals back into the ecosystem, making them more available to plants, insects, and other organisms. The majority of these decomposers are woodland species, such as Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus species), Shiitake (Lentinula edodes), and King Stropharia (Stropharia rugosoannulata). They offer the most opportunities for cultivation and having them around our garden is a win-win situation, for culinary pleasures but also land regeneration and healthy soil.


To select the best species for cultivation, several things must be considered, like climate, available raw materials and local resources in abundance, so native species are the best choice when designing outdoor mushroom landscapes. Nonetheless, we also think it’s important to always experiment, as part of the learning process, because we’re not just gardeners or farmers, we’re also researchers and designers of our landscape- by observing different approaches we learn what works best for us, in the individual conditions we have. Permaculture thinking!


Inoculating the Food Forest


A beautiful method of growing mushrooms is cultivating them outdoors, in our food forest, on our garden beds and paths, around perennials and trees. Fall to spring, in more or less 6 months, the first fruiting should happen. Good choices would be King Oyster (Pleurotus Eryngii) and Garden Giant (Stropharia Rugosoannulata) mushrooms, both suitable for growing outdoors, fast and resistant, good companions for veggie gardens.


By direct inoculation into our garden beds and the paths between them, we positively affect the soil structure, accelerating organic matter decomposition, increasing porosity, water retention and feeding the beneficial microorganisms in the soil.


An option would be to mulch the garden bed with a straw layer, add the spawn (King Oyster or Garden Giant). Cover with another layer of straw. Water it. Done.

Other option would be mixing grain spawn (King Oyster) directly into the soil of your raised beds. Then you plant your veggies. Frame the garden beds with logs (inoculated with Oyster, because why not). Water it. Done. Beautiful and efficient, just how mother Nature likes it.


The Garden Giant, aka the Wine Cap or King Stropharia, a beautiful wine colored mushroom, suitable for companion planting with vegetables, is highly adaptable, resilient, successful in drier conditions and sunnier locations, competing well with other fungi. It doesn’t grow indoors (wild at heart), thus it’s not being commercially farmed so you can’t find it in the supermarket, and that makes it a really special crop for our food forest.


The King Oyster is known to hunt down and feed on nematodes, tiny parasitic worms living in the soil, damaging the roots of many vegetables. So it’s only beneficial to cultivate it around our gardens. Besides, we’re also attracting more pollinators- apparently bees like to feed on the mycelium!

You can introduce the King Oyster to your herbal (spiral or not) garden, because it likes growing around Apiaceae (Umbels) plants- parsley, dill, coriander, fennel, cumin, celerey, anise etc.


Here in the Azores we observed different species of mushrooms (hard to identify) growing around the orchards, between the citrus trees, on the mulched paths, on decaying wood, on old stumps- by the way, that’s where we found a landrace white Oyster mushroom emerging from a crumbly old stump at the edge of the garden!

Take time and observe, when clearly there are mushroom- friendly conditions, why not introduce gourmet species for more biodiversity and higher yield?








Log inoculation - Fruit trees


If you have wood in abundance, like fresh cut logs, branches you don’t want to dispose of or even tree stumps that you don’t want to dig out, an interesting method is inoculating mushroom species into the wood, for example with plug spawn, store bought or even developed in home conditions (see above). Besides growing delicious or medicinal mushrooms, you’ll also be building soil from the decomposed wood consumed by the fungi.

We  recommend starting with shiitake (Lentinula Edodes) and oyster (Pleurotus Ostreatus) mushrooms. Both gourmet and medicinal, they are the easiest & fast to grow, less pretentious and sensitive than other strains. 

Reishi (Ganoderma Lucidum) is also a great option- powerful medicinal polypore fungus, anti-inflammatory, immune & brain booster,  anti-cancer, to name just a few- just grind it into a powder and add it to your daily coffee or tea. 


Easy enough, there are a few basic steps for log inoculation:

  • insert wooden dowels inoculated with a decomposer fungus into a log (or stump)

  • protect the insertion site with a wax sealant or other cover (we used food wrap)

  • store the logs somewhere protected from fungi competitors and dehydration

  • occasionally water the logs while patiently waiting 6-36 months for mushrooms


You can choose your logs based on what type of hardwood is available on your land or in your area.

The vast majority of hardwood trees are suitable for mushroom cultivation: alder, chestnut, poplar, willow, hornbeam, oak, beech, birch, are among the best. The thicker barked species are preferred over the thinner barked species as they support fruiting for longer. There are restrictions involving fruit trees, and conifer trees; Nameko can be grown on both hardwoods and softwood, whilst Chicken-of-the-woods can be grown using some fruit trees, like cherry (See below).


Some fungi have preferred growing locations on trees. Most fungi have a specific pathway into trees (through roots, wounds on a tree’s trunk, foliage, etc.) and specific locations where the fungi prefer to grow. Fungi such as maitake and reishi, for example, prefer to grow close to where a tree’s trunk and roots meet. Fungi like oysters, lion’s manes, and shiitakes will grow most places where there is dead wood to eat, including high-up on branches. 

If your mushroom of choice has a preferred growing location, you should try to

accommodate it, for higher chances of success. 

There is an optimal window for introducing fungi into cut wood. Living wood contains anti-fungal compounds. It can take a few days to a few weeks for these compounds to dissipate from wood after it’s cut, but the longer you wait, the more competition your fungus will have from organisms in the environment. Generally, the optimal window is 1 week to 2 months.


We’ve been experimenting with Carob and Platanus (Sycamore) wood, after some pruning we did in the orchard. We drilled holes along the logs and inoculated them with plug spawn bought from a local provider (See pictures below). We decided on 3 species- Reishi, Oyster and Shiitake, and apparently they loved the Carob wood (we’re guessing due to high sugar contained in the wood). Within 1-2 month we observed the mycelium spreading evenly in the wood, surprisingly, Reishi was the fastest to develop. 

We also inoculated some old Platanus stumps with the same method, because why not.

We keep the logs stacked in a shady area of the orchard, with plenty of humidity (no shortage of rain in the Azores) and raised on some boxes so they’re not directly in contact with the soil, for less chances of contamination with other fungi. Initially we had them wrapped in food-grade plastic wrap, which seemed to accelerate the mycelium growth, plus we covered the logs with a large black plastic sheet for the first couple of weeks. After a few weeks we soaked the logs in rain water over night, which seemed to encourage the mycelium. 

We’re hoping to see some fruiting in a few months, we’ll keep you updated of course.


Since we’re focusing on home grown mushrooms and most probably we’ll be working with fruit trees of our farm or area, here are some recommended combinations of fruit trees and mushroom species that proved to go well together.


Some of them can grow very well in orchards like Morels and in veggie gardens like Shaggy Mane


In fact, many varieties will thrive nicely with little or no maintenance. For example, (the delectable Shaggy Mane) would feel right at home in and around your compost pile. The immense stature of the stunning purple-capped, black-gilled Stropharia rugoso-annulata may thrive in an area where lawn and woodchip mulch are in proximity, or between rows of straw-mulched vegetables or fruit trees.


Agaricus species (the Portobello, the Prince, the Horse Mushroom, etc.) are adaptable to grassy areas among trees


Boletus edulis

Chestnut (Castania sativa) orchards are a favourable habitat for growth


Maytake

Suitable woods are poplar, oak, alder, aspen, maple, birch, ash, beech, willow or elm.
Fruiting season for this mushroom is summer.


Mushrooms that grow on Pine wood are Phoenix oister, shimeji and turkey tail, find more HERE


Pleurotus generaly prefers softer woods



FRUIT TREE

FUNGI

Apple

Oyster, Lion’s Mane, Shiitake, Nameko, Morels (on the floor)


Cherry

Nameko, Oyster, Shiitake, Olive Oysterling, Chiken of the woods

Pear (also Sycamore, Palms)

Oyster


Mulberry (also Hackberry)

Oyster, Lion’s Mane, Lion’s Comb, Nameko, Piopino

Fig

Piopino, Nameko


Apricot

Piopino, Nameko


Olive

Piopino, Nameko


Walnut

Lion’s Mane and Lion’s Comb (Black Walnut), Flammulina velupites, 

 

 

*in bold = very good yield


Choose which strain will suit your climate best. 

Use hardwood logs like Alder, Ash, Birch, Bitternut, Cherry, Chestnut, Hophornbeam, Ironwood, Maple, Oak, Pecan, Sweet gum, Sycamore, Tulip poplar, Walnut, Willow and others









Coffee grounds as substrate for Oyster mushrooms


If you’re a coffee drinker and your house accumulates daily coffee grounds from the coffee machine, just put it all together in a non-air tight container and inoculate it with mushroom spawn. We used a worm-box (see pictures below)! Bonus- mushy juice you can use as fertilizer! Our spawn was plug spawn from a local provider- wooden dowels inoculated with Pleurotus/ Oyster- a resistant, yet delicious mushroom. In 2 months we had our first mushies popping out! We let the first ones spread out their caps nicely in the sun so the wind could carry out their spores around our land- spread the spores, spread the love! 


Other substrates and propagation through stem butts


We bought some Shimeji (Lyophyllum shimeji) mushrooms for a delicious stir-fry and we saved the butts, by cutting off the base of the stems, keeping the root-like rhizomorphs as intact as possible. This applies to basically any store bought mushrooms. 

As a substrate we used some wheat grain (canary seed, rye and most grains will work) we had available around the house, we pasteurized it (basic boiled water/ 100C), same procedure with some clean glass jars and lids. We drained the grains really well- you don’t want the grains soaking at the bottom of the jar, too much humidity- more chance of contamination. While the grain was cooling down (needs to be less than 50C), we made 2 thin cuts each lid and covered them with breathable adhesive tape (to let the mycelium breathe).

Then we layered the cooled down grains in the jars with the Shimeji butts- few spoons of grain+pinch of the mushroom stems. Keep layering until jar is almost full, letting some space under the lid. Close tightly. Label. Store in a dark place, room temperature- the mycelium likes the warmth but that higher temperature also means higher chance of mold contamination. Incubate for 4-8 months.

We placed our jars in a big plastic container, covered (but not air-tight) and we kept it at around 23-25C. In about 2 weeks we observed the mycelium starting to develop and spread out around the grains in the jar (pics below).

And by the way, just as described above, we can develop more mycelium out of plug spwan, for later uses. Just throw the inoculated dowels in the grain substrate following the same procedure.

Obviously, all the stages above are recommended in a clean sterile environment, to minimize chances of contamination, so disinfect surfaces and hands regularly.


An interesting substrate for growing mushrooms we been studying lately is sawdust pellets. Due to the high temperatures created during production, wood pellets are a sterile medium for growing mushrooms. Furthermore, once the wood pellets are formed and cooled their high density means it’s very difficult for bacteria and fungi to penetrate into the wood pellets. Just add clean cold water to the pellets and let them expand before introducing the fungi (check out this awesome dude’s method).

Avoid softwood pellets, they’re usually made of pine wood and apparently pine has anti-fungal properties, so that’s obviously not ideal if you’re trying to grow mushrooms, yields would certainly be affected. 

Go for the BBQ pellets instead, since they are only made from hardwoods, therefore, they could be a good source as a growing medium for mushrooms.

A cool tip would be to supplement the wood pellets with wheat bran, for added nutrition, to maximize the fruiting potential. In this case though, extra steps for pasteurization/ sterilization would be necessary.








Fungi in farming


Setting aside the obvious, palpable presence of mushrooms as fruiting body above the ground, we are going for a journey underground, where the real magic happens, hidden from our eyes, in the fascinating home of mycelium, microorganism and roots networking.


Fungi and bacteria are living together in a wide variety of environments, engaging in complex interactions that lead to critical shifts in the balance of microorganisms in the arable, pasture and forest soils. These interactions are important drivers of many ecosystem functions and are essential for the health of plants and animals.


The fractal structure of the mycelium enables fungi to vastly expand in the soil, effectively exploiting the three-dimensional space and easily adapting to environmental disturbances, in same time, providing the ideal transport paths for bacteria.


Bacteria and fungi can indirectly interact by modifying their environment in ways that positively or negatively affect their partners. PH has been frequently reported as an important factor involved. Fungi sense and actively modulate the pH in their surroundings, for example to raise the soil pH from levels below pH 5.0 to just above this threshold for survival of certain pH sensitive fungal-associated bacterial strains. 

Increasing the pH from acid towards a more neutral value directly stimulates overall bacterial growth and metabolism, as low pH commonly inhibits the growth of most bacteria.



Check out this article for more on the topic of Bacterial–fungal interactions (warning- super nerdy!)

Mycofiltration


Given that the mycelial network is perfectly designed as a filtration membran, in the rainy season, the downstream water is passing through this membrane, being cleansed of not only carbon/nitrogen-rich compounds that the mycelium is feeding on but also bacteria, in some cases nematodes, and legions of other microorganisms. The Oyster mushrooms been found to be parasitic against nematodes (Thorn and Barron, 1984; Hibbett and Thorn, 1994). 


The use of mycelium as a mycofilter is currently being studied by Paul Stamets in the removal of biological contaminants from surface water passing directly into sensitive watersheds. By placing sawdust implanted with mushroom mycelium in drainage basins downstream from farms raising livestock, the mycelium acts as a sieve, which traps manure bacteria and ameliorates the impact of farming on the aquatic ecosystems.


Fungi in natural succession and healthy forests


Most ecologists now recognize that a forest's health is directly related to the presence, abundance, and variety of mycorrhizal associations.


The floor of a forest is constantly being replenished by new organic matter. Primary, secondary, and tertiary decomposers can all occupy the same location. In the complex environment of the forest floor, a "habitat" can actually be described as the overlaying of several, mixed into one. And, over time, as each habitat is being transformed, successions of mushrooms occur. This model becomes infinitely complex when taking into account the interrelationships of not only the fungi to one another, but also the fungi to other microorganisms (yeasts, bacteria, protozoa), plants, insects, and mammals.

Studies in Europe show a frightening loss of species diversity in forestlands, most evident with the mycorrhizal species. Many mycologists fear many mushroom varieties, and even species, will soon become extinct. As the mycorrhizal species decline in both numbers and variety, the populations of saprophyric and parasitic fungi initially rise as a direct result of the increased availability of deadwood debris. However, as woodlots are burned and replanted, the complex mosaic of the natural forest is replaced by a highly uniform, mono-species landscape. Because the replanted trees are nearly identical in age, the cycle of debris replenishing the forest floor is interrupted. This new "ecosystem" cannot support the myriad fungi, insects, small mammals, birds, mosses, and flora so characteristic of ancestral forests. In pursuit of commercial forests, the native ecology has been supplanted by a biologically anemic woodlot. This woodlot landscape is barren in terms of species diversity.


A shift in mentality, attitude and forestry methods are necessary, it’s a matter of global awareness, education and care. We can no longer ignore this, the effects will ripple wave-like into the future, affecting our future generations and the health of our planet, our home.


Going for a hike here in Sao Miguel, the main island of Azores, you can observe human impact on the landscape, from extended pastures, to mono-culture forests. There are just a few places left where you can still step into an old-growth forest, like around the lagoon of Lagoa do Congro, a magical place filled with myth, mossy blankets, fallen old trees slowly decomposing into the soil, devoured by beautiful clumps of mushrooms, popping up here and there along our path. The parasitic Armillarias are clearly taking over, balanced by Ganodermas, in the natural succession of the forest species, recycling the dying trees, making space for the older trees and hopefully for mycorrhizal species.

We also saw some purple Russulas, classic red Amanitas (that first Amanita Muscaria made my day) and even a rare white Coral mushroom.








The fungi are working slow but steady in the darkness and silence of the forest, balancing out human impact, contamination, deforestation, mono-culture, it all gets processed into the Natural Succession of the forest, by these quiet sentinels of Nature, spreading their mycelium fractals deep into the soil, connecting Life & Death, decomposition and rebirth. 


We, humans, conscious beings of our planet, can each get involved and support this fragile balance of biological interactions, in many different ways, from small to big scale, from our back yard gardens to forests, slow but steady, reconnecting to the original wisdom and living forever in the Wood Wide Web.


By Diana Arhire


  Banana palmito harvest

                                                                      Diana Arhire

                                                                            June 2020

Here you can see several arcticles that Diana wrote after

her PDI Permaculture Design Internship






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Permaculture is to create paradise on earth starting at the kitchen garden